The HELLFIRE Self Timing Brake system is not just another knockoff copy of existing self timing brakes. It was engineered from the ground up to be extremely effective, easier to install, and much more versatile. Read more on all of its advantages below:
In order to simplify the choices, we have four caliber selections available for the HELLFIRE brake. The difference in efficiency between using a caliber specific brake bore, and the next size up is so minimal if not non existent that we decided to simplify things in order to lower overall costs to you the consumer. As you can imagine, trying to stock the exact quantities required of six or so different calibers would be impossible.
223/6mm – Good for any bullet caliber up to and including 0.243 (6mm), ie 223, 5.56 NATO, 204, 17 cal, etc
6.5mm – Good for any bullet caliber up to and including 0.264 (6.5mm), ie 257, (Magnums OK)
7mm/308 – Good for any bullet caliber up to and including 0.308, ie 7mm, 284, 270, (Magnums OK)
338 – Good for any bullet caliber up to and including 0.338, ie 338WM, 338LM, 338NM, 338 Edge (5/8-24 is still max thread size!!!) See our Sidewinder brake for ultimate reduction on these cal’s
– Extremely easy installation, brake WILL NOT turn as you torque the collar to lock. No more guessing where the brake ports will line up once you tighten it down!
– Simple round knurled nut that requires no tools to time the brake.
– Return to zero is excellent. This means removal of your brake and re-installation will not require a zero change.
– Simply torque the universal adapter onto your barrel with a 5/8″ wrench, this piece never has to come off. Next, LEFT HAND thread the brake/collar assembly onto the adapter until it is almost snug. Now rotate the brake until it is level, push the brake into the adapter and you will feel it lock onto the taper. Now tighten the collar fully by hand, and you are done!
HELLFIRE Muzzle Brake
– Rearward facing ports for the ultimate in recoil reduction. Independently tested side by side with the best brakes on the market. The HELLFIRE showed 52% recoil reduction on a 6.5 Creedmoor test rifle. This is ~4% more than the one of the most popular brakes on the market.
– Proprietary port design controls muzzle rise without the use of top porting.
– Face of brake is engraved with caliber to indicate the top for correct orientation, and a horizontal line to aid in leveling.
– Made from heat treated 17-4PH Stainless Steel
– Brakes will be available in Black Nitride finish or raw stainless (all universal adapters will be black)
– Manufactured on state of the art CNC Machines right here in NW Ohio. 100% Made in USA.
– 1″ OD Brake, 1.1″ OD collar
– Brake assembly will add 2.6″ from the thread shoulder (approx 2″ added to OAL of barrel)
– Weighs 4.8oz for a 5/8-24 6.5mm brake
Maintenance on any muzzle brake is essential. Just like your barrel, muzzle brakes need cleaned. Over time carbon will build up in the ports, mainly the last port as the first two are semi-self cleaning from the muzzle blast. When this carbon builds up, it will eventually get to the point that bullets can actually strike it. Depending on your shooting regimen you may not notice this, you might just call it a flier. But in a competition when you need every round to impact, this is critical. Carbon bullet strikes are a worst case scenario, but the buildup can also cause accuracy or POI issues just due to airflow changes in the brake ports.
NOTE: The use of Lemishine (or any citric-acid cleaner) or CLR to clean your brake will likely discolor the black nitride, and will void the lifetime warranty of your product. Don’t do this. Seriously. It’ll turn pink and you’ll feel like an idiot.
- The best cleaning method for any muzzle brake is PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE. If you clean the brake every time you clean the barrel (200-400 round intervals, shorter for 6mm rounds) it will make your life much much easier. With that being said, just soak the brake in a carbon cleaner like Boretech C4 and all the carbon should come right out, especially if you have a Black Nitride brake. Raw stainless brakes can be more challenging to clean because the surface is more porous. If necessary, you can use any kind of cleaning brush to aid in the removal of carbon from the ports. Black Nitride is harder than any material they attach to a brush, so you will not scratch the surface. Raw stainless may scratch if you use a stainless or other harder bristle brush.
- If you decide to wait until 1000 rounds or more, you will have a lot of carbon buildup in the 2nd and 3rd port which will take some effort to remove. Best method here is probably to soak for a day or two in C4 and use a pick to get the big chunks out. Then follow the above method to get the remainder off.
- You should also clean your Universal Adapter with the same care. Every time you clean your barrel, let the carbon cleaner from patching the barrel soak on the muzzle for a few minutes and use a q-tip to wipe any carbon from the barrel crown and inside the end of the adapter. Soak a patch in carbon cleaner and wipe the taper surface of the adapter off. If there is persistent carbon on the surface, use steel wool to remove, it will not damage the surface.
- Brakes should not be placed in a wet tumbler, specifically not one with pins or media of any sort. The small pins can work their way into the collar/retaining ring area, and this is likely to compromise the integrity of the retention device in the brake. Foreign material here can result in the brake becoming a projectile. This is not safe, and will void the product warranty.
Here is a quick video covering installation and the ease of swapping between brake and suppressor